Glad to hear you got it sorted, also glad to hear your son likes your toys

contact CS, and take a look at the inner portion of the hands and feet there may be some paint in there or something that is not allowing the balls or pegs to fit in there good

I found that the female portion at hip needed more then a few seconds heat like normal.  Thing is with any of the repairs or mods proper heat time is needed, too little and the area will cool before you have a chance to work the part in and adjust it. Too much heat and you run the risk of pushing interior in as the vinyl / plastic wil be too soft.

Kinda curious why you had to remove the body portion, you could just pop it into the body fairly easily without all the effort.

Ok I snapped a few photo's and tried it a few times but I had no problems with mine. At any rate I basically just heated the female joint at the hip for 15 secs (that's one onethousand, two onethousand, ect ect) I then simply pushed it in. I held each part firmly cupped in each hand.

photos:






Please note however that no two ball joints will be the same, I've had one shoulder ball joint take 45 minutes while the other shoulder take 2 sec's . your mileage may vary...

I took a bunch of mine apart, I haven't put them back together yet but of your like a little later tonight ill give a few a shot and let you know

Best thing to do is just take a break

Thanks yeah I have several ideas for them, I actually need to get working on a few maybe later today, also need to so ish up another one I've been working on for ages.

I may just take a blow dryer and hear along the helmet edge then try and pop it off just in case it is possible. (Shouldn't hurt it if I give it a quick to just once) thanks for reply I'm know at least not to try too hard

Thanks for letting us know Lance, so the too can't come off like the other botheads? Mostly want to know so I can plan on my own stuff. Sorry to hear that its still having issues. maybe roughen up the too later and redo it bondo style, not something I'd recommend to everyone by with your painting and customizing skills I could see you jamming out a awesome custom

Have you seen Amon Lin's EMGY bothead?

Of course not a answer to your particular issue, which I hope you can still get resolved

just curios Lance, I have a few of these myself and plan on customizing them, are they like the larger ones where the top portion is removable? also if it was me and I had to release some pressure to allow the top to expand I'd try the botttom first (that is if the top of the bothead isn't removable)

There actually looks like a space to add a hole at the bottom (possibly this was already there? it would be fairly easy to cover with some matching paint

also the top may have become damaged due to change in temperature or altitude especially with the trapped air inside the head. just my theory

just looking at your previose picture it seems like you can access this rear section I would just sand that rear portion a bit and then glue it there that should lock it in nicely. if ou need send me a pm over weekend with a bit more detailed photo.

Hi pezbanana, looking over your pictures I would say that a simple superglue should work though I would advise using a glue with a brush applicator. something like this should work:



the important part is to make sure to clean the area you will glue first. a little sandpaper will work good. you don't have to do much your basically trying to knock back any residue already there as well as roughen the surface a bit to allow the glue to bond both surfaces together. Since this is a tight area the brush tip applicator will make it much easier to work with. when gluing I generally like to work deeper into the area that is to be glued and not work all the way to the front of visable areas where the two parts will join. the reason is that usually when you press both parts together the glue may push forward and too much can cause a unsighly seam line to be visable. I hope that made sense. with superglue you will need to work quickly, so I always suggest that you pretest the area for fit before gluing together. after light sanding test fit the two pieces and make sure they will join tightly without any visual problems. once thats done then open up just a bit and brush that glue in

also side note about the sand paper, when working in small tight areas I like to fold the sand paper into a triangle, it should be large enough a piece that my hand can work it in nicely and have good control, but you want a corner tip so you can work it in with a index finger. you don't need to do too much just a bit.

if you need any further help send me a pm

CS doesn't keep packaging at their office, it sounds like they made a inquirey for you and found out there is none left. As it is packaging's sole purpose to protect your toy, it sounds like it did the main job.  When items ship halfway around the world there's no way to insure that every package will make it its destination without a few minor bumps.

While its a shame that your package was damaged I'm not sure sure what can be done. Its doubtful that ThreeA would be able to have one new box printed up plus pay the cost to ship out a empty box halfway across the world.  In packaging all companies put a cardboard slip on the top and bottom as that is the entry points, I don't know of any company that packs boxes with a slip on all sides.

Yeah I think even Microsoft has a free excel viewer (i know I've used a few free ones before)

my guess is they are sending you a xls file? (an excel file) you can open it if you look google for a program that will open a xls file. there are some free ones. (if its not a xls file simply look for the file extension type and google for what it is and a free program to open it on, at worst case scenario I'd imagine google docs may open it

Why not just wrap the half you don't want paint removed off of with masking tape. That would protect the paint, plus it beats trying to match color