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Author Topic: 3A Quality Control: Problems, complaints and concerns  (Read 27523 times)
Avi
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« Reply #555 on: February 09, 2013, 07:27:49 PM »

Basically.  I was shifting the elbow joint and holding at the forearm to straighten out the arm so he could go back into his foam cage, and then the thumb fell off.  I wasn't even putting pressure on it the hand.

I'll keep you posted once they reply.
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Gimbat
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« Reply #556 on: February 09, 2013, 08:15:30 PM »

Please keep in mind, that they are currently on Chinese New Year Holiday until February 14th.
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Avi
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« Reply #557 on: February 09, 2013, 10:49:23 PM »

Yep, saw that on Friday in the daily update.
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anubis2night
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« Reply #558 on: February 11, 2013, 12:48:22 PM »

Hi pezbanana, looking over your pictures I would say that a simple superglue should work though I would advise using a glue with a brush applicator. something like this should work:



the important part is to make sure to clean the area you will glue first. a little sandpaper will work good. you don't have to do much your basically trying to knock back any residue already there as well as roughen the surface a bit to allow the glue to bond both surfaces together. Since this is a tight area the brush tip applicator will make it much easier to work with. when gluing I generally like to work deeper into the area that is to be glued and not work all the way to the front of visable areas where the two parts will join. the reason is that usually when you press both parts together the glue may push forward and too much can cause a unsighly seam line to be visable. I hope that made sense. with superglue you will need to work quickly, so I always suggest that you pretest the area for fit before gluing together. after light sanding test fit the two pieces and make sure they will join tightly without any visual problems. once thats done then open up just a bit and brush that glue in Smiley

also side note about the sand paper, when working in small tight areas I like to fold the sand paper into a triangle, it should be large enough a piece that my hand can work it in nicely and have good control, but you want a corner tip so you can work it in with a index finger. you don't need to do too much just a bit.

if you need any further help send me a pm Smiley
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pezbanana
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« Reply #559 on: February 15, 2013, 10:58:06 PM »

Hi James,
thank you for the detailed reply and tutorial. It seems that to follow your method, i'd have to go ahead and completely detach the cannons from their bases? Right now they are loosened and separated at the shown areas, but still attached somewhere else. So in completely detaching them, i'm afraid i might cause more damage than there is right now.

I'll better send you a PM too... sometime during the weekend... i've just had very busy days lately and hadn't seen this reply, but thank you once again Smiley
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anubis2night
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« Reply #560 on: February 15, 2013, 11:16:35 PM »

just looking at your previose picture it seems like you can access this rear section I would just sand that rear portion a bit and then glue it there that should lock it in nicely. if ou need send me a pm over weekend with a bit more detailed photo.

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« Reply #561 on: February 23, 2013, 02:15:40 PM »

Had my first disappointment with CS over the past 3 weeks. My 1/12 Kyuu bothead arrived ' deflated' so the dome collapsed in on itself. Must have been packed that way as the box was mint.
I gently heated and managed to reshape almost back to what it should have arrived like before it collapsed again. Tried several times before I contacted cs to help or replace. After several confused emails I was finially told to 'drill a hole in the top and heat'......great so I receive a defect item and then have to drill into it. They would need to see it before they would consider a replacement or repair it.


I am not new to customising and changing vinyl figures but only when it is my decision- I paid for an item that I expect to arrive in good condition. It also had 'greying' where the plastic was stretched and discolouring to the paintwork ( not weathering).

Finally told today that there are no replacements available. I shouldn't have to pay for sending it back as I did not damage it.

CS were very polite as always, can not fault the manner but gone it seems are the days of very helpful ways.



I will no doubt get around to customising it into a damaged bothead...not the point though. 
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anubis2night
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« Reply #562 on: February 23, 2013, 03:00:28 PM »

just curios Lance, I have a few of these myself and plan on customizing them, are they like the larger ones where the top portion is removable? also if it was me and I had to release some pressure to allow the top to expand I'd try the botttom first (that is if the top of the bothead isn't removable)

There actually looks like a space to add a hole at the bottom (possibly this was already there? it would be fairly easy to cover with some matching paint

also the top may have become damaged due to change in temperature or altitude especially with the trapped air inside the head. just my theory

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« Reply #563 on: February 23, 2013, 04:52:15 PM »

Hi James, I have drilled a small hole at the bottom and re heated- still collapsed after a few hours on display. Tried again and stuck it in the freezer to set for an hour. Same thing happened again. The vinyl is so thin at the top where it has warped that it is almost translucent- damaged in my opinion. I can't see how 3A would repair it as it needs a new layer of vinyl, repaint and shaping. A lot of work for a cheapish 3A item.

Not worth me paying $15 shipping back for something like this.

You might well be right about the temperature change.

Just a shame as the botheads are one of my fav things from the 3A stable- I just prey my Jenga heads arrive in good shape.

I have been delighted in the past with cs, always prompt and helpful and have been the best service by far. maybe with 3A expanding this is to be expected that more issues arise? I have been an avid fan of the company, will do my best to stay positive.

Thanks for the suggestions James 
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anubis2night
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« Reply #564 on: February 23, 2013, 05:38:33 PM »

Thanks for letting us know Lance, so the too can't come off like the other botheads? Mostly want to know so I can plan on my own stuff. Sorry to hear that its still having issues. maybe roughen up the too later and redo it bondo style, not something I'd recommend to everyone by with your painting and customizing skills I could see you jamming out a awesome custom Smiley

Have you seen Amon Lin's EMGY bothead?

Of course not a answer to your particular issue, which I hope you can still get resolved
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« Reply #565 on: February 23, 2013, 05:54:39 PM »

I think the top is all one piece James. I might have fun with this, thanks for the kind comments about the customising and good luck with your own.
As for the EMGY bothead...a masterpiece to be congratulated!
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anubis2night
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« Reply #566 on: February 23, 2013, 06:00:10 PM »

Thanks yeah I have several ideas for them, I actually need to get working on a few maybe later today, also need to so ish up another one I've been working on for ages.

I may just take a blow dryer and hear along the helmet edge then try and pop it off just in case it is possible. (Shouldn't hurt it if I give it a quick to just once) thanks for reply I'm know at least not to try too hard Smiley
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Chivo
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« Reply #567 on: February 23, 2013, 06:22:11 PM »

I'm thinking you should be able to separate the helmet from the rest of the head, no?...Just like in the bigger version...It might be more difficult and the seam not as easily seen or  separated due to the paint, but I think that would be the best solution if you're trying to fix it yourself...Personally once separated, I would dunk it in some hot water and reshape it that way rather than a blow dryer...Maybe even put a cardboard framework in the helmet for a day or two to support the shape before putting it back together...

But yeah...I'm almost positive you should be able to separate the helmet from the head...How else would they make this bothead hollow?..
« Last Edit: February 23, 2013, 06:24:21 PM by Chivo » Logged

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Gimbat
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« Reply #568 on: February 24, 2013, 03:42:23 AM »

Hi James, I have drilled a small hole at the bottom and re heated- still collapsed after a few hours on display. Tried again and stuck it in the freezer to set for an hour. Same thing happened again. The vinyl is so thin at the top where it has warped that it is almost translucent- damaged in my opinion. I can't see how 3A would repair it as it needs a new layer of vinyl, repaint and shaping. A lot of work for a cheapish 3A item.

Not worth me paying $15 shipping back for something like this.

You might well be right about the temperature change.

Just a shame as the botheads are one of my fav things from the 3A stable- I just prey my Jenga heads arrive in good shape.

I have been delighted in the past with cs, always prompt and helpful and have been the best service by far. maybe with 3A expanding this is to be expected that more issues arise? I have been an avid fan of the company, will do my best to stay positive.

Thanks for the suggestions James 

I believe that Paul Litter already told me about his friend experience (which was very alike) and I asked him to tell you, to forward all the communication to my email...or maybe it was somebody else, with the same problem Sad

I'm sorry to hear about all this trouble Lance. Can you please forward you entire communication with CS to gimbat@threeaonline.com ?

As I understand they offered you immediately to send it for repairs back to HK and you refused, that's why they started to offer on how to repair it home?  I'm willing to help you as much, as I can with this and potentially to get you a new bothead.
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« Reply #569 on: February 24, 2013, 02:10:19 PM »

email sent Gimbat- thanks
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